Hi Allan, I have an odd driveline vibration coming from the rear of my Toyota Surf. It feels very much like a driveshaft vibration but I did both unis only a couple of months ago and the driveshaft is definitely in phase. The output on my transfer feels solid, I can’t move it by hand, and the pinion on the diff is the same.
Any ideas what it could be?
Darren, there’s lots of possible causes of this. You’ll need to drive it over a variety of terrains in different gears to troubleshoot the issue. I’d be looking at having the tailshaft balanced first. Does the vibration gradually get worse at speed, does it cut out over a certain speed, is it still evident on overrun, does it occur on the downhill out of gear, does it happen when the vehicle is up on the stands?
These are all the things you can do. Be careful when it’s up on stands. You need someone intelligent in the vehicle when it’s being revved with his foot real close to the brake. Make sure the stands are solid and you’re not under the vehicle, but I reckon you’ll be able to see the vibration.
They are the things we would do to check this out. Let me know how you go. Thanks for the query Darren.
Hi Allan, I need to settle an argument I have been having with my old man. When I reverse my caravan or boat up his driveway or any steepish hills I put it into 4L, not locking the hubs just to lower the gear to push it up inclines. It works a treat and saves my clutch, but he reckons it would ruin my transfer case gears, is this true? I can’t see it doing any damage.
Well Marc, using the low range ratio in the manner that you suggested is a top idea, but of course, don’t lock in the hubs! What you’re doing is easing the strain on the clutch, transmission and diffs. You’ll probably even be able to get your foot off the clutch completely. But keep your Dad around for a bit longer yet, I’m sure he’ll come in handy before long.
Dane Halsted (Port Augusta, SA)
Hi Allan, I’ve been slowly rebuilding a 350 Chev that’s eventually going to go into my Land Rover County that I’m slowly doing up. The motor has been sitting for a while, but it was running several years ago when I bought it. My question is, once it’s all finished and sitting in the engine bay, what’s the correct procedure to starting an engine that’s been sitting for the last couple of years?
The oil is all new and there’ll be fresh fuel being pumped into it, but I’m worried that when I go to start it, the upper pistons and head will be drained of all their oil and I may damage it in the time it takes for the oil pressure to build up.
What should I be doing to avoid this happening, or am I worried about nothing?
Dane, it’s a smart move to be worried about it. I would remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of engine oil into the cylinders and connect a master gauge into the oil pressure sender unit tapping. Then turn the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure reaches normal.
However, you’ll need to watch out for two things: First, keep your eyes and face away from the spark plug holes in case there’s a little too much oil in the cylinder head it’ll come out like you wouldn’t believe! The second is to not let the starter motor turn the engine over for more than about 30 seconds at a time to prevent it from overheating.
Also, once you’ve got it running, remember to change the oil over after about 1,000 kilometers. Go for it mate.