Hi Allan, I was on a 4WDing trip recently and a couple of vehicles, including mine, rolled a tyre off the rim. I seated mine by cleaning the mud out of it as best I could and then securing a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tyre and reinflating it with a compressor.
The next time it happened to another 4WD travelling with us he removed the valve core and squirted lighter fluid into the gap between the tyre and wheel abd lit it on fire, securing the bead with the sudden expansion of the hot air.
Is this a safe way to reseat tyres? It was certainly a lot quicker than the way I used but it seems as though it could be dangerous, and surely wouldn’t do the inner surface of your tyres any favors.
Interested in your take on it, thanks.
James, I do it the slow way. Remember that the lighter fluid is effective but dangerous, and far more so if you use a lighter to ignite it. You can blow your hand off buddy. My advice is to use tubes in your tyres and you won’t have the rolling off problem.
The Brisbane 4wd show has been and gone for another year - Many thanks to Mark George, Allan Gray, and all the staff who helped make the show a success. One of the surprises you would have seen at our stand was the Australian-Made TOMCAR, a very capable offroad vehicle that can tackle any job thrown at it. We have one on display at the Brisbane branch if you didn't get a chance to see it at the show.
I was hoping you’d be able to give me some advice based on your experience. I’m 18 and just bought my first 4WD, a Mitsubishi Triton. I have a slight oil leak from the rocker cover gasket and I was wondering when an oil leak becomes a concern?
I’ve heard that unless you’re dripping oil on the driveway, it’s not leaking fast enough to warrant fixing. I’m probably losing around 100ml per 24hour time period. What do you think? Should I get it fixed ASAP or will it be ok for a little while?
My next question is more of a ‘how does it work?”. When my truck’s rolling backwards and I put it in 1st gear, it goes in smoothly. But when I’m rolling forwards and go to put it in reverse, it grinds. Why is this so?
Thanks for your time Allan, it’s much appreciated.
Matthew, fix the fool of a thing. It’s not a big job. You’ll have oil from one end of the motor to the other, up the back and everywhere else, you could end up having a fire, and why risk it? It’s got to be done anyway. Give the motor a good wash down, get a new rocker cover gasket, be careful fitting it and you won’t have to worry about oil on the driveway and you’ll keep your motor clean. You’ll be very pleased you did it.
As for your second question, your vehicle probably has synchro-mesh on first, which prevents it from grinding by allowing the gears to engage smoothly, but reverse doesn’t have synchro so it grates so avoid using it if you can. But that’s the reason, thanks mate.
Our boys had a great time at the Victorian LandCruiser Club's annual Cruiserkhana meet last weekend. They even took out a medal for their efforts in the balance comp!
Hi Allan, I drive a SWB Pajero which I love, but lately I’ve been having some problems when I engage 4WD. By process of elimination and the help of my mates we worked out that the passenger side CV shaft, thrust washer and wheel bearings were very much stuffed and the front driveshaft uni joints were shot as well.
After a few hundred dollars and a few hours on the tools I replaced all these parts and also installed brand new AVM hubs. However when I put it in 4WD I still get a large clunking noise. It sounds like the driveshaft but it’s too loud and inconsistent to be the driveshaft, especially after I’ve just replaced all the parts.
I pulled the cover off the front diff and inspected it to make sure I hadn’t stripped any teeth off my diff gears and they still seem to be in perfect order. So I’m stuck on what the noise is – any ideas?
Luke, not having the current mileage available it’ll be difficult to troubleshoot but I suspect a stretched transfer case beltage.